Le Canal des Deux Mers à Vélo day 4 - 62 km from Castelsarasin to Toulouse

What a start to the day at Peniche GEMJO. I woke to find a table all to myself set on the deck. It was raining, but the deck was covered, so I enjoyed breakfast listening to the sound of rain falling on the canopy and watching it splash across the canal.

Not far beyond is the strange kind of lock: the Pente d’Eau de Montech (Montech water slope). In order to bypass a series of 5 locks, this contraption used two train engines in a frame to pull barges weighing up to 250 tonnes up a slope. This would save 45 minutes compared to using the locks. These days, it’s a tourist attraction, and I guess it means that people touring up and down the canal these days just need to take their time on the locks.

Arriving at Toulouse feels quite strange compared to everywhere else on the route. The city is so big! From the point where it feels like you’re approaching the city, the canal paths are busy with runners and cyclists and it takes a surprisingly long time to reach the city centre. But it’s a beautiful city centre once you’re there.

The river passing through the city seems very side, and the red colour of the buildings stands out. Entering the city centre, the narrow streets are packed with restaurants and people shopping.

Roaming the streets, I entered the Bascilica of Saint-Sernin, which has a huge collection of reliquaries. Antoine de Saint Exupéry was a local, so there are frequent nods to him, including a bookshop selling Le Petit Prince in a huge number of languages. I had hoped that I might find an Armenian copy, but sadly had no luck.

It was also exciting to come across the Cave Poésie, a club that puts on live poetry events. Later, I found a restaurant that had won an award for the best cassoulet in Toulouse, which is quite the accolade, so I had dinner there, outside on the terrace, chatting to the lady at the neighbouring table.

I had a day in Toulouse, so I got the train to Les Halles de la Machine. This is one of the most amazing experiences you could have. It’s a place full of mechanical contraptions, instruments and giant mechanical creatures. Some based on animals and others based on mythical beasts. Being close to them while they are moving is a thrill, and it’s also rather amusing when a giant mechanical dragon sneezes on you.